Rockville, Maryland, July 23, 2003 – "Fallsgrove Village Center is turning into a grazer's paradise. Each month reveals another new place. Some, like Mamma Lucia and Taipei Tokyo (opening as we go to press), are successful Montgomery County multiples. Others, like Chipotle, Jerry's Subs & Pizza, Smoothie King, Panera Bread, Cheeburger Cheeburger, Starbucks and Haagen Dazs, are outposts of national chains.
Tribes Grill is that rare bird, an independent restaurant -- at least for the moment. It has the feel of a prototype for a successful franchise and a good one, too. The long sleek restaurant has a clean contemporary look with large white lantern-like lights and light wood tables. The kitchen is recessed behind the curving counter where you place your order. Above the register, a large wallboard lays out a menu of Lebanese appetizers, salads, sandwiches and kabobs.
Beverages lined up on the counter go beyond the familiar: Sprecter ginger ale and root beer, San Pellegrino limonata and orangiata, Vinto fruit flavored drink and Sanbitter. Just visible to the right are two vertical rotisseries. One holds chicken shawarma; the other, lamb and beef shawarma.
Although I have heard good things about the kabobs, I have my heart set on a different type of meal. The array of appetizers (15 not including mainstream chicken tenders) is perfect fare for a mezze.
Making a meal out of little plates is a smart way to eat, especially when you want to taste a lot of different things. It is no wonder many cultures engage in this practice. Spanish tapas, Swedish smorgasbord, Chinese dim sum and Russian zakouski all have their delights.
We order eight appetizers for four people and are hard pressed to clean our plates, even with a platter of warm pita. You can gauge according to your appetite.
Hummos and baba ghannouj are probably the two best-known Lebanese dips. Hummos is a savory chickpea puree with tahini (sesame paste), lemon juice and garlic. Baba ghannouj similarly blends baked eggplant, tahini, lemon juice and garlic.
We select hummos bi shawarma, hummos with bits of beef and lamb shawarma. This is food for the gods. The hummos has a good thick texture and wonderful flavor. The meat adds a nice accent. Instead of the ubiquitous baba ghannouj, we try shakshouky, a refreshing chopped eggplant salad with tomato, scallion and garlic. It has imitators all over the Mediterranean so you know it's a winning combination. The third eggplant appetizer, mnazlit batinjan, eggplant cooked with chickpeas, garlic, onions and tomatoes, will have to wait for another time.
Satisfying the crunchy munchies are deep-fried fritters called falafel made of ground chickpeas, fava beans, onions, parsley and spices. Beyond the cumin, coriander and cilantro, a hot spiciness lurks that can be tempered with a thin tahini sauce. Kibbeh is another popular deep fried dish, in this case ground beef and pine nuts encased in a shell of crushed wholewheat bulghur. Enlivened with a spicy sauce, it, too, is delicious.
Regular bulghur is the base for tabouleh, a salad accented with parsley, mint, onion and tomato and dressed, of course, with lemon juice and olive oil. At home, I would add salt to the basically bland mix, but here that's not an option.
Stuffed grape leaves arrive bathed in green-hued olive oil. They are meatless, but the filling of rice, onions, mint and lemon juice packs a lot of flavor.
Pumpkin is a member of the squash family that doesn't get its due in American kitchens. But around the Mediterranean, it's a star. Buranee kadu, sautéed pumpkin with yogurt sauce, or the kadu special, buranee kadu topped with meat sauce and yogurt, are worth your acquaintance. But be aware they are sweet enough to rival dessert.
If you like panzanella, the Italian bread salad, try the Lebanese version, fattoush. It combines toasted pita bread and fresh vegetables in a mint, lemon juice and olive oil dressing.
Are you ready for dessert? The baklava, a trio of bite-sized filo pastries with nut fillings, won't put a dent in your diet. The alternative is rice pudding. That plus the kabobs and the appetizers I missed are on the agenda for the next visit."
Tribes Grill
14925 H Shady Grove Road, Rockville
Hours: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Entrée prices: $7.25-$10.95
Credit cards: MC, V
Carryout: 301. 309. 0200
No smoking, accessible |
